Thursday, October 8, 2009

day 13-15 Coasting through Castille Days

Well, not exactly coasting as we have been blown by wind and rain into the city of Burgos today. It is the 300km walking mark as such, and also where we will leave the walking and bus it over the wide plains of the Meseta , 180km, to Leon where we will start the last 300km into Santiago.

Day 13.
We left the fowls crowing at Santo Domingo after a beautiful evening mass and a memorable pilgrim blessing from a very passionate priest.
Not so memorable was the loss of betty´s reading glasses which were mislaid, handed into reception and then not able to be found. Maybe put away somewhere but we have asked them to keep an eye out on anyone with glasses in the Albergue walking into walls( LOL joking ...)

The day was along a busy highway for most part but still good. We were again joined at times by Julie from South Africa who was very good company. She has called us the Duracells as we seem to her to just keep on going as in the battery ads commercials of the toys....anyway we are still keeping on going steady but sure.
Belorado was a good destination for the day. We again indulged in LUXURY as we stayed at El Caminate Albergue in our own room and ensuite...the night before I had little sleep because I was trapped on the top bunk between an exit light which shone like the moon and two people in the next bunks who ran tandem snoring sessions....."and let he who is without snore throw the first pillow"... I think I must snore at times eh
The church here was built into the cliffs where former hermits lived and betty thought it would be good to visit...not.

DAY 14
A big 25 km day over a mountain range and three peaks. It was interesting walking through pine and oak forests and good views below. Soon the forest closed in and we journeyed on what seemed an endless road ribboning through into the distance.
We collapsed on the side of the road at one stage and devoured apples and cheese and bread.
Later afternoon was the sudden emergence of San Juan de ortega which was in a valley and not on a hill. The parish Albergue was charming and atmospheric...some also said unhygenic and run down... it hard a lovely courtyard. The tradition of the former, now deceased parish priest was to provide garlic soup and after the mass... getting a lot of masses and blessings here...., we had delicious hot garlic soup.
The church in this pueblo was quite extraordinary as well..kind of white stone with the usual large arches...amazing.

DAY 15
We headed off with julie to get into Burgos as fast as possible to arrange transport. She is going to Saria about 100km from Santiago tomorrow.
There was one big climb and at the top there was a huge concentic circles of stones placed by pilgrims. Large eagles also soared in the thermals above us.
The wind became quite ferocious .
Down into the first town we struck rain and wind and it made it harder even though we were fortified by hot tea and chocolate at a bar where pilgrims had crowded.
A Canadian girl there showed some horrific blisters..her ankles and toes were raw.. I really admired her courage to continue. She was going with her mother and was going to stayover in Burgos. I have seen some pilgrims really struggling with knees the size of footballs and badly blistered.
So far so good.... I am wearing Narelle Ash´s Injinjii socks which are an inner sock made like a glove to fit each toe. Then I have the outer sock.
If any one sees Narelle tell her they are the best product on the Camino.

We became quite wet and bedraggled and fluked it by picking up a bus 9km out of burgos which saved a dreary walk through the burbs.

The Albegue here is a renovated monastery I think and is really great.
I am so tired now I am just prattling on...we did a tour through the Burgos Cathedral which would rival any Cathedral in the world......simply mind boggling....
We have been taking each day as it comes and each day is a bonus.. Pleased that we have made it this far and shared some good times with many peregrinos...BUEN CAMINO

5 comments:

  1. You are doing really well - but when are you going to take a day off!!! Everyone needs a rest day - even Duracells need recharging sometimes. Love to you both
    Al

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  2. My thoughts as well, so I'll second that. Take care,
    love,
    Margaret

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  3. Hi Jim and Betty- I am travelling vicariously with you and enjoying revisiting some special places and memories. The snoring is probably one of the biggest challenges of the whole Camino! Vaya con Dios! Ann I

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  4. Goodday Jim and Betty, this is your follower from Holland. Glad you have such a terrific journey. By bus over the Meseta? Everybody says it is a very special walk because it is so lonely. But you have earned it afcourse after all those days. Be safe and happy! Hedwig.

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  5. thks for the comments....we have smaller days as days off and the bus ride was good too
    some big hlls coming up but we are having hard fun

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