Cacabelas to Vega de Valcarce 23 km
I thought that this would be a horrible day and had nightmares about it....but strangely it turned out well.
We had a quick feed of our own yoghurt and again out in the dark. The sun came up over all the vineyards and the undulating walk into Villfranca del Bierzo ( 8km) was very pretty....but long without a coffee fix. Over coffee with Canadian Bob we decided to take an option to going over the mountain( there´s the big one tomorrow) and decided to walk along the highway. We ere told it had some danger but the whole way we were able to wallk inside a concrete barrier which protected us from the spanish speedsters and giant lorry trucks.
It was a suprising walk along beside the rio Valcares and this very pretty river gave off cooling draughts of air as it flowed swiftly through the polar lined banks. We looked high into the constant hills and imagined Magnus climbing in the mid day sun...
We were able to get right through to vega de Valcarce which puts us under the mountain for the climb tomorrow.
Betty is walking more freely with a re strapped leg and I had an extra zing to my hop..
We are at the Municipal Albergue in the little town which sits under a giant overpass set into the sky.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Day 21 Hoppy and Skippy Day
Molinaseca to Cacabelas 22km
I had a hop in my step today as my knee had enough after yesterdays vertical challenge. Betty had a skip in her step as her shins were hurting from the same downward spiral.
A fine breakfast at the Santa Marina Albergue of Molinaseca and we set out in the dark of the early morning with Canadian Bob to Ponsferrada ( 8km) a small city. He had many tales of the camino from St Jean.
We said good bye to Julie in Ponsferrada as she was to return to South Africa and had to organise details. She was very good company and we crossed paths and albergues over the past week.
We had a cafeteria stop and moved quickly out into the vineyards of the countryside.
"Quickly" is probably not the right word as we found that many pilgrims like us suffered from the day after of the descent and progress was pretty suspect.
Fortunately it was probably the flattest day walking but we still staggered into Cacabelas at about 3pm
The Municipal Albergue was quite different and it had a series of two bed rooms arranged in a semi circle around the church. It was good for privacy.
We caught up again with Newcastle Magnus and Kate from Brisbane and had dinner after raiding the mercado.
I am physically tired and also getting mentally tired. There is a big climb coming up and it is hard not to think of Santiago, 8 days and 200km away.
One day at a time!!!!!!!
We walked for a while with a young Californian , Justin . he was having some knee problems but was determined to make it all the way.
I had a hop in my step today as my knee had enough after yesterdays vertical challenge. Betty had a skip in her step as her shins were hurting from the same downward spiral.
A fine breakfast at the Santa Marina Albergue of Molinaseca and we set out in the dark of the early morning with Canadian Bob to Ponsferrada ( 8km) a small city. He had many tales of the camino from St Jean.
We said good bye to Julie in Ponsferrada as she was to return to South Africa and had to organise details. She was very good company and we crossed paths and albergues over the past week.
We had a cafeteria stop and moved quickly out into the vineyards of the countryside.
"Quickly" is probably not the right word as we found that many pilgrims like us suffered from the day after of the descent and progress was pretty suspect.
Fortunately it was probably the flattest day walking but we still staggered into Cacabelas at about 3pm
The Municipal Albergue was quite different and it had a series of two bed rooms arranged in a semi circle around the church. It was good for privacy.
We caught up again with Newcastle Magnus and Kate from Brisbane and had dinner after raiding the mercado.
I am physically tired and also getting mentally tired. There is a big climb coming up and it is hard not to think of Santiago, 8 days and 200km away.
One day at a time!!!!!!!
We walked for a while with a young Californian , Justin . he was having some knee problems but was determined to make it all the way.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
day 20 What goes up must come down Day
Foncebadon to Molinaseca 17km
Sunrise over le Cruz de ferro the highest point on the camino. A golden halo seemed to surround the iron cross above its very simple wooden upright. Pilgrims stood in silent meditation in a very moving experience as the suns rays crept over the mountains. The cross is built on a large mound of stones and during these silent moments , pilgrims placed stones or other objects which they had carried here from their home.
It was a special moment on the pilgrimmage.
The mountains were magical in the morning sun as we made the sharp descent from the 1500m height.
What we thought would be a quick descent turned into an unsteady stepping over the crumbling stones and rough pathway. Most injuries are caused in descents and we already had seen some pilgrims in pain.
My knee held up well but Betty developed a few leg pains which were very painful. She seems OK now.
There was an alternative to walk the road, but it is a Spanish National holiday and there was a lot of traffic and speed... we were thinking..mmm temporary pilgrims on that road.
Molinaseca seemed an eternity away deep in the valley but we struggled in and found the really nice Santa Marina Albergue in this beautiful village..
After my ramblings yesterday I was just going to post photos today but I cant again get access but will post some photos of the mountains which were a highlight of the day.
A Norwegian lady who has already walked 1000km said that we were lucky to see the mountains in such beauty.
here at the Albergue Betty is talking to a brisbane, Loretto college past student.... small world.
one guy passed us today and said the usual Hola and then saw our little Aussie flag tag on the backpack and said " G´day" ....sounded funny hearing an Aussie voice amongst the many German , French and Spanish dialects.
Tomorrow we hit a big city and flatter terrain...
Only 225km to go but still not thinking too much about Santiago yet.
Sunrise over le Cruz de ferro the highest point on the camino. A golden halo seemed to surround the iron cross above its very simple wooden upright. Pilgrims stood in silent meditation in a very moving experience as the suns rays crept over the mountains. The cross is built on a large mound of stones and during these silent moments , pilgrims placed stones or other objects which they had carried here from their home.
It was a special moment on the pilgrimmage.
The mountains were magical in the morning sun as we made the sharp descent from the 1500m height.
What we thought would be a quick descent turned into an unsteady stepping over the crumbling stones and rough pathway. Most injuries are caused in descents and we already had seen some pilgrims in pain.
My knee held up well but Betty developed a few leg pains which were very painful. She seems OK now.
There was an alternative to walk the road, but it is a Spanish National holiday and there was a lot of traffic and speed... we were thinking..mmm temporary pilgrims on that road.
Molinaseca seemed an eternity away deep in the valley but we struggled in and found the really nice Santa Marina Albergue in this beautiful village..
After my ramblings yesterday I was just going to post photos today but I cant again get access but will post some photos of the mountains which were a highlight of the day.
A Norwegian lady who has already walked 1000km said that we were lucky to see the mountains in such beauty.
here at the Albergue Betty is talking to a brisbane, Loretto college past student.... small world.
one guy passed us today and said the usual Hola and then saw our little Aussie flag tag on the backpack and said " G´day" ....sounded funny hearing an Aussie voice amongst the many German , French and Spanish dialects.
Tomorrow we hit a big city and flatter terrain...
Only 225km to go but still not thinking too much about Santiago yet.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Day 19 Climb Every Mountain day
Actually the Hills weren´t alive with the sound of music but with a lot of grunts today.
We had a great Albergue Peregrino meal at Las Aquedas in Murias the night before and it was a great stay ( except for the lady in the bunk above me who kept thrashing around all night in a marathon wrestling contest...but all good for an Albergue)
The sunrise was magnificent as we looked back and it heralded a bright sunny day.
Our first objective was a 16km climb up to Rabanal del Camino 1156m and we made good time and as we gained height views of the land opened up.
The guy from Newcastle England passed us early. Despite his friendly gibes about the Ashes, and how can you respond to that?, he was good company and had come also from St Jean and had some Meseta stories.
There were many pilgrim bike riders including a good group of guys from Argentina but they also had to grind up the hills and compete with kamikaze motor bike riders.
At Rabinal. a sleepy little Pueblo for a Sunday we had a quick coffee and decided to push on the 6km to Foncebadon just over 1400m. This would mean that we would be in striking distance of the 1500m peak which is the highest point on the Camino.
It was hard but a steady rate got us up in 90 minutes and we found LUXURY
A beautiful mountain Albergue Convento de Foncebadon and we have our own room. Google that name and you will get a picture as I can´t get a usb port on this computer.
Oh well this all seems a bit ho hum and I can imagine that you haven´t been up this way it is all a bit droll.
You may wish to switch off at this stage
THE SPIRIT OF ST JAMES
mmm to be a bit more boring I have had some more thoughts in the past week about the spirit of James the Apostle
The shortened version.
He was yes a passionate individual, ready to have a go, take a risk, adventuresome as I previously described....and these are all just my perceptions remember.
I think though that his spirit was more about his love for people, his relations ship with people. Well he heard it many times in travelling with Jesus, the message to love others as you love yourselg, as I ( Jesus) have loved you...
Are you still with me?
He goes right over to Spain forms a community, comes back with his Spanish friends to help his friends in Jerusalem when he hears they are in trouble. He is executed for his troubles and then supposedly his friends regarded him so highly that they took his body all the way back to Spain....so his relationships must have been very strong....What other apostle had friends act in the same way as this is recorded with James ?
And for centuries people have been travelling enormous distances sharing the camaraderie of the Camino to visit Sant Iago
Really as I have walked I have thought that in the end , Relationships, are all that count anyway. All the things I have thought important don´t seem to have the same significance compared with those I love specially and those who have other degrees of relationship. Maybe this is then the spirit that James had.
Yes I am stating the obvious .... I won´t get on this subject again.... unless I think up some other scenario about James!!!!!!!!
Back to the Mountain climbing tomorrow
We had a great Albergue Peregrino meal at Las Aquedas in Murias the night before and it was a great stay ( except for the lady in the bunk above me who kept thrashing around all night in a marathon wrestling contest...but all good for an Albergue)
The sunrise was magnificent as we looked back and it heralded a bright sunny day.
Our first objective was a 16km climb up to Rabanal del Camino 1156m and we made good time and as we gained height views of the land opened up.
The guy from Newcastle England passed us early. Despite his friendly gibes about the Ashes, and how can you respond to that?, he was good company and had come also from St Jean and had some Meseta stories.
There were many pilgrim bike riders including a good group of guys from Argentina but they also had to grind up the hills and compete with kamikaze motor bike riders.
At Rabinal. a sleepy little Pueblo for a Sunday we had a quick coffee and decided to push on the 6km to Foncebadon just over 1400m. This would mean that we would be in striking distance of the 1500m peak which is the highest point on the Camino.
It was hard but a steady rate got us up in 90 minutes and we found LUXURY
A beautiful mountain Albergue Convento de Foncebadon and we have our own room. Google that name and you will get a picture as I can´t get a usb port on this computer.
Oh well this all seems a bit ho hum and I can imagine that you haven´t been up this way it is all a bit droll.
You may wish to switch off at this stage
THE SPIRIT OF ST JAMES
mmm to be a bit more boring I have had some more thoughts in the past week about the spirit of James the Apostle
The shortened version.
He was yes a passionate individual, ready to have a go, take a risk, adventuresome as I previously described....and these are all just my perceptions remember.
I think though that his spirit was more about his love for people, his relations ship with people. Well he heard it many times in travelling with Jesus, the message to love others as you love yourselg, as I ( Jesus) have loved you...
Are you still with me?
He goes right over to Spain forms a community, comes back with his Spanish friends to help his friends in Jerusalem when he hears they are in trouble. He is executed for his troubles and then supposedly his friends regarded him so highly that they took his body all the way back to Spain....so his relationships must have been very strong....What other apostle had friends act in the same way as this is recorded with James ?
And for centuries people have been travelling enormous distances sharing the camaraderie of the Camino to visit Sant Iago
Really as I have walked I have thought that in the end , Relationships, are all that count anyway. All the things I have thought important don´t seem to have the same significance compared with those I love specially and those who have other degrees of relationship. Maybe this is then the spirit that James had.
Yes I am stating the obvious .... I won´t get on this subject again.... unless I think up some other scenario about James!!!!!!!!
Back to the Mountain climbing tomorrow
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Day 18 Another Dashing Duracell Day
We did dash off in the darkness of the early morning from the lovely San Miguel Añbergue in Hospital de Orbigo. The helpful hospatalier had said "directo".. straight on. As we reached the last house the yellow arrow turned left but a big camino shell was directly ahead.
In the dark we pushed on and reached the N 120 which really wasn´t part of the map plan. We knew then we were on the alternate route and after following the highway we swung back on to the usual route. It all made for very interesting early morning conversation aswe navigated.
The country side was quite beautiful as we negotiated the few climbs.
No sign of Sao Paulo ,Louise, who travelled by bus out of Leon with us. She left her trekking pole on te bus and made a suicidal attempt through traffic in the morning dark to stop the bus as I waved my poles like some demented air ground crew controller trying to stop the bus.......she succeeded. Two days before Leon on the Meseta during a heavy hail storm the waste water pipe near the camino suddenly burst sending wate water all over her and the other pilgrims as they fled for higher ground. She said that she needed to get injections for a infected foot......She seems to be having an exciting Camino.
Another Aussie couple we met in Leon had run into the same hail storm and had to form a group of pilgrims to keep themselves from being blown away. They both had been severley infected with lice in an Albergue and also had to have injections, This is the first we have heard of this...scary
We walked the 16km into the city of Astorga. It was very busy with a festival and had some great attractions but we are a bit " cathedraled " out so we pushed on 5km to Murias wher we have a really nice Albergue Las Aguedas which so far does not have too many people.
We had lost a lot of our dash at the end of the day.
Still meeting many interesting people on the way .
Julie from South Africa is here . She had booked a 6.30am bus from Leon but she couldn´t get out of the Municipal Albergue we were in. Another german girl tried to get througfh ll the fire escapes and was equally unsuccesful..bit of a worry . Julie has to return soon and is doing 5 days on this section so we are running into her every now and then.
Betty said I should write something on Albergue life as this might be of interest. Will think about it as i know there are experienced pilgrims reading the blog and they would have their own ideas on it.
I should say that many of them are run voluntarily and all the hospitaliers we have met have always been courteous and helpful. Communal living does have its challenges but most people are considerate and it is not so bad.
We will have a smaller walk tomorrow.....mmmm one day at a time
In the dark we pushed on and reached the N 120 which really wasn´t part of the map plan. We knew then we were on the alternate route and after following the highway we swung back on to the usual route. It all made for very interesting early morning conversation aswe navigated.
The country side was quite beautiful as we negotiated the few climbs.
No sign of Sao Paulo ,Louise, who travelled by bus out of Leon with us. She left her trekking pole on te bus and made a suicidal attempt through traffic in the morning dark to stop the bus as I waved my poles like some demented air ground crew controller trying to stop the bus.......she succeeded. Two days before Leon on the Meseta during a heavy hail storm the waste water pipe near the camino suddenly burst sending wate water all over her and the other pilgrims as they fled for higher ground. She said that she needed to get injections for a infected foot......She seems to be having an exciting Camino.
Another Aussie couple we met in Leon had run into the same hail storm and had to form a group of pilgrims to keep themselves from being blown away. They both had been severley infected with lice in an Albergue and also had to have injections, This is the first we have heard of this...scary
We walked the 16km into the city of Astorga. It was very busy with a festival and had some great attractions but we are a bit " cathedraled " out so we pushed on 5km to Murias wher we have a really nice Albergue Las Aguedas which so far does not have too many people.
We had lost a lot of our dash at the end of the day.
Still meeting many interesting people on the way .
Julie from South Africa is here . She had booked a 6.30am bus from Leon but she couldn´t get out of the Municipal Albergue we were in. Another german girl tried to get througfh ll the fire escapes and was equally unsuccesful..bit of a worry . Julie has to return soon and is doing 5 days on this section so we are running into her every now and then.
Betty said I should write something on Albergue life as this might be of interest. Will think about it as i know there are experienced pilgrims reading the blog and they would have their own ideas on it.
I should say that many of them are run voluntarily and all the hospitaliers we have met have always been courteous and helpful. Communal living does have its challenges but most people are considerate and it is not so bad.
We will have a smaller walk tomorrow.....mmmm one day at a time
DAY 17 THE LONGEST DAY
Leon streets.
Bridge in Hospital de Orbigo
Our picnic lunch stop.... a hard way to go on a picnic.Yesterday we bussed from Burgus to Leon across the wide open plains of the Meseta. We saw pilgrims struggling along the endless tracks and we were happy we had bypassed this 180Km walk.
Leon was a beautiful and vibrant city and the monastry Albergue was quite charming the nuns blessed the pilgrims.
Today we have set out again first catching a bus through the burbs of Leon (info helpfully provided by the never to be found tourist info) After 15k through delightful country we changed our plan and decided to push on another 15k to Hospital de Orbigo. This has beeen a long day nearly 30k a bit too much for us so it will be early to bed after menu del dia at the local bar which does not serve food until 7pm in the usual Spanish way.
Thursday, October 8, 2009
day 13-15 Coasting through Castille Days
Well, not exactly coasting as we have been blown by wind and rain into the city of Burgos today. It is the 300km walking mark as such, and also where we will leave the walking and bus it over the wide plains of the Meseta , 180km, to Leon where we will start the last 300km into Santiago.
Day 13.
We left the fowls crowing at Santo Domingo after a beautiful evening mass and a memorable pilgrim blessing from a very passionate priest.
Not so memorable was the loss of betty´s reading glasses which were mislaid, handed into reception and then not able to be found. Maybe put away somewhere but we have asked them to keep an eye out on anyone with glasses in the Albergue walking into walls( LOL joking ...)
The church here was built into the cliffs where former hermits lived and betty thought it would be good to visit...not.
DAY 14
A big 25 km day over a mountain range and three peaks. It was interesting walking through pine and oak forests and good views below. Soon the forest closed in and we journeyed on what seemed an endless road ribboning through into the distance.
We collapsed on the side of the road at one stage and devoured apples and cheese and bread.
Later afternoon was the sudden emergence of San Juan de ortega which was in a valley and not on a hill. The parish Albergue was charming and atmospheric...some also said unhygenic and run down... it hard a lovely courtyard. The tradition of the former, now deceased parish priest was to provide garlic soup and after the mass... getting a lot of masses and blessings here...., we had delicious hot garlic soup.
The church in this pueblo was quite extraordinary as well..kind of white stone with the usual large arches...amazing.
DAY 15
We headed off with julie to get into Burgos as fast as possible to arrange transport. She is going to Saria about 100km from Santiago tomorrow.
There was one big climb and at the top there was a huge concentic circles of stones placed by pilgrims. Large eagles also soared in the thermals above us.
The wind became quite ferocious .
Down into the first town we struck rain and wind and it made it harder even though we were fortified by hot tea and chocolate at a bar where pilgrims had crowded.
A Canadian girl there showed some horrific blisters..her ankles and toes were raw.. I really admired her courage to continue. She was going with her mother and was going to stayover in Burgos. I have seen some pilgrims really struggling with knees the size of footballs and badly blistered.
So far so good.... I am wearing Narelle Ash´s Injinjii socks which are an inner sock made like a glove to fit each toe. Then I have the outer sock.
If any one sees Narelle tell her they are the best product on the Camino.
We became quite wet and bedraggled and fluked it by picking up a bus 9km out of burgos which saved a dreary walk through the burbs.
The Albegue here is a renovated monastery I think and is really great.
I am so tired now I am just prattling on...we did a tour through the Burgos Cathedral which would rival any Cathedral in the world......simply mind boggling....
We have been taking each day as it comes and each day is a bonus.. Pleased that we have made it this far and shared some good times with many peregrinos...BUEN CAMINO
Day 13.
We left the fowls crowing at Santo Domingo after a beautiful evening mass and a memorable pilgrim blessing from a very passionate priest.
Not so memorable was the loss of betty´s reading glasses which were mislaid, handed into reception and then not able to be found. Maybe put away somewhere but we have asked them to keep an eye out on anyone with glasses in the Albergue walking into walls( LOL joking ...)
The day was along a busy highway for most part but still good. We were again joined at times by Julie from South Africa who was very good company. She has called us the Duracells as we seem to her to just keep on going as in the battery ads commercials of the toys....anyway we are still keeping on going steady but sure.
Belorado was a good destination for the day. We again indulged in LUXURY as we stayed at El Caminate Albergue in our own room and ensuite...the night before I had little sleep because I was trapped on the top bunk between an exit light which shone like the moon and two people in the next bunks who ran tandem snoring sessions....."and let he who is without snore throw the first pillow"... I think I must snore at times ehThe church here was built into the cliffs where former hermits lived and betty thought it would be good to visit...not.
DAY 14
A big 25 km day over a mountain range and three peaks. It was interesting walking through pine and oak forests and good views below. Soon the forest closed in and we journeyed on what seemed an endless road ribboning through into the distance.
We collapsed on the side of the road at one stage and devoured apples and cheese and bread.
Later afternoon was the sudden emergence of San Juan de ortega which was in a valley and not on a hill. The parish Albergue was charming and atmospheric...some also said unhygenic and run down... it hard a lovely courtyard. The tradition of the former, now deceased parish priest was to provide garlic soup and after the mass... getting a lot of masses and blessings here...., we had delicious hot garlic soup.
The church in this pueblo was quite extraordinary as well..kind of white stone with the usual large arches...amazing.
DAY 15
We headed off with julie to get into Burgos as fast as possible to arrange transport. She is going to Saria about 100km from Santiago tomorrow.
There was one big climb and at the top there was a huge concentic circles of stones placed by pilgrims. Large eagles also soared in the thermals above us.
The wind became quite ferocious .
Down into the first town we struck rain and wind and it made it harder even though we were fortified by hot tea and chocolate at a bar where pilgrims had crowded.
A Canadian girl there showed some horrific blisters..her ankles and toes were raw.. I really admired her courage to continue. She was going with her mother and was going to stayover in Burgos. I have seen some pilgrims really struggling with knees the size of footballs and badly blistered.
So far so good.... I am wearing Narelle Ash´s Injinjii socks which are an inner sock made like a glove to fit each toe. Then I have the outer sock.
If any one sees Narelle tell her they are the best product on the Camino.
We became quite wet and bedraggled and fluked it by picking up a bus 9km out of burgos which saved a dreary walk through the burbs.
The Albegue here is a renovated monastery I think and is really great.
I am so tired now I am just prattling on...we did a tour through the Burgos Cathedral which would rival any Cathedral in the world......simply mind boggling....
We have been taking each day as it comes and each day is a bonus.. Pleased that we have made it this far and shared some good times with many peregrinos...BUEN CAMINO
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Day 12 Out of the Red Wine of Rioja
Our lovely añbergue..single rooms at Arzofa
Baroque interior of Los Archos Church
The Long and winding road...mmm this one is dead straight
The signs that tell you youre not lost just a little confused and so go this way. Most of the way has painted yellow arrows. The Rioja shell has a different style to it
There are many piles of pilgrim stones on the way. Usually I haven´t the energy to stoop but Betty found this enormous pile and coudn´t help it.
Into another village which is usually up because of the hilltop
A pilgrim today with most of his pack on the outside. The last of the Rioja vineyards
This town is further away than you think.. in fact it often seems to be furtherSome of the younger pilgrims enjoyed the free flowing red wine at Azorfa great Albergue. We had clearer heads as we walked out soon leaving vineyards behind us.
It was a short 15km walk to Santo Dominigo de Calzado dedicated to the 11th century monk who heroically built pilgrim bridges, roads and refuges in a lifetime effort.
It is also the place of the fabulous myth of the miracle of the cock. If you have heard it before this is a potted version of the story.
Apparently a young handsome lad and his pilgrim parents stayed here. The young lad resisted the attentions of the comely barmaid who in revenge secreted a golden goblet. Unbeknown to this parents who had moved on the theft was discovered and the lad was summarily hanged.
On their pilgrimmage return the parents found their son hanging in the plaza but somehow miraculously alive.
They went to the sheriff as he ate his lunch of cooked chicken and he dismissed their news with the statement that this was as absurd as the chicken on his plate coming alive. At which his meal did become alive and started crowing. The lad was released and the miracle attributed to St Dominic.
Anyway his tomb is in the Church as well as two fowl in a coop at the back of the church and there are more fowl in the garden out the back. you can´t beat a good story and it does add to the mystique of the town...and there were more tourists here today than ever.
We leave La Rioja region tomorrow and enter Castilla y Leon. Just as well. We asked for a glass of wine at the restaurant last night and they brought out a bottle.
No , no" we said " just uno glass por fabor" There was much confusion and my spanish which has held up pretty well so far was no good. Until of course we realised that they just keep filling the bottles all the time and you don´t have to drink it all at all.
We did meet two entertaining Irishmen though who are about to go home and I think they really liked the bottle idea and religiously drank all before them.
Julie the South African lady has just come in after a side detour to a Cistercian Monastery. I would have liked to go but it seemed to me to be pushing our luck to get off the beaten track....hard beating the footsteps as it is.
This blog is pretty self focussed I realise and there is another world out there.
My thoughts were with St James college in going back to school today. Not in a " ha ha " way but in the many hours of quiet walking you get to think a lot and I thought about what the school was about and the people who work so hard for the students.
Then I thought today a lot about the spirit of St James , the school namesake,the one who started all this.
You may wish to stop reading now as this is just random thoughts but it was part of my original camino to look for the spirit of St James
I have begun to think that James was a pretty spirited fellow. He and his brother weren´t called the "sons of thunder"for no reason . Rather quick tempered, impetuous but in these days we could say he was pretty passionate about things.
On record he did journey to the then rather furtherest part of the Roman Empire to Northern Spain. Pretty adventurous I would think to go so far in those days.That´s right across the Mediterranean
Then to top it off he rushes back to jerusalem when he hears there is a bit of trouble there... he liked to be in the thick of it... and loses his head to boot... the first Christian Martyr... again this is a pretty potted version of history.
I thought today of all this and it seemed that he was a guy who was always prepared to have a go, maybe to do his best... and he seemed to throw himself into helping others.
So where is this spirit on the camino?
Is it in the many churches we have visited and religious ceremonies, masses, rosaries and even a beautiful rendition sung of " Regina Coeli" ( Queen of Heaven)
It definitely is in the symbols and rituals.
However, At this short stage of the journey I have probably found the spirit of St James in the fellow Pilgrims.
Don´t cringe please at this.
But you know, I thought, " They are all a bit like St james.. they are having a go...they have a purpose" Why else would you walk 800km across a country to a supposed tomb of a heroic figure? don´t answer that...
I know all pilgrims have different motives for the walk and that is Ok and there is no one reason...but they have all been drawn in some way by the James thing...whatever that is to everyone.
At the college there are " Spirit of St james Awards" given to students who have done their personal best in some area... it is really a very special award as I think of it now...
Anyway enough for the wandering thoughts. My best wishes to all at the coal face of St James and to all the pilgrims who walk this way.
BUEN CAMINO
Days 9-11 Logrono Linger Longer and days of wine and...
Day 11.. we have walked over 200 km
On day 9 we left the beautiful Navarre Region and came into the wine growing region of Rioja and its capital Longrono.
A few snaphots ( sorry can´t post photos here)
*** An Englishman sits in the awning of his white van next to the Camino track just outside Longrono.He runs a pilgrim support service, very friendly, helpful, and we have a chat and move on. I have heard of his kindly presence on the Camino in discussion groups.
***Terribly geographically embarassed in Longrono City despite masses of phampletts and directions from the couteous tourist information. We have trouble finding the out of city centre albergue but we come across other pigrims later standing lost on corners looking for signs and wonders.
***There is a single occupant in the albergue and he is snoring at 2pm like a chain saw with a faulty motor.. Honestly there were vibrations all around. Pilgrims had scattered to the four walls of the large open spaced double bunk beds area. Someone said later that he had the flu s
*** We have decided to lighten our load and send on luggage 350 km to leon. What followed was a comic international exchange in the Post Office but the assistants were very kind and we came out 7kg lighter.
*** Well the packs felt a bit lighter the next day but still heavy ( I kept thinking about the weight of the two apples in my pack for dinner..)
****And yes the chain snorer did not appear again but we were ambushed by a snorere next to us. All part of communal living and we have had some really good experiences so far.
After a 19 km walk on day 10 we came to ventosa set in the wine fields...yes on a hill...The Albergue was so really homely...new,clean,Bach playing, incense smoke drifting through the reception, small rooms,large patio and garden, and large lounge....home away from home.
**** We had tea with Julie a pyschologist from South Africa. We had crossed trails many times in the last few days...It was a delightful three course Peregrino meal in a local restaurant....I had hardly eaten during the day and eating a large meal at 8pm is a Spanish Cultural happening.
*** On Saturday we moved through more vineyards and saw many whole families out working there picking. There have been many tractors with trailers laden with grapes sharing our tracks
Today at Azofora a short 15km walk we have our own two bed room in a designed Pilgrim Albergue...it is LUXURY ... big garden.
We arrived here at 1pm and have had a three course meall in the middle of the day.
Walking does become quite a self pre occupation... However in the churches it has been good to reflect quietly on life and people so our thoughts are often with loved ones, friends, acquaintances, work friends etc.
On day 9 we left the beautiful Navarre Region and came into the wine growing region of Rioja and its capital Longrono.
A few snaphots ( sorry can´t post photos here)
*** An Englishman sits in the awning of his white van next to the Camino track just outside Longrono.He runs a pilgrim support service, very friendly, helpful, and we have a chat and move on. I have heard of his kindly presence on the Camino in discussion groups.
***Terribly geographically embarassed in Longrono City despite masses of phampletts and directions from the couteous tourist information. We have trouble finding the out of city centre albergue but we come across other pigrims later standing lost on corners looking for signs and wonders.
***There is a single occupant in the albergue and he is snoring at 2pm like a chain saw with a faulty motor.. Honestly there were vibrations all around. Pilgrims had scattered to the four walls of the large open spaced double bunk beds area. Someone said later that he had the flu s
*** We have decided to lighten our load and send on luggage 350 km to leon. What followed was a comic international exchange in the Post Office but the assistants were very kind and we came out 7kg lighter.
*** Well the packs felt a bit lighter the next day but still heavy ( I kept thinking about the weight of the two apples in my pack for dinner..)
****And yes the chain snorer did not appear again but we were ambushed by a snorere next to us. All part of communal living and we have had some really good experiences so far.
After a 19 km walk on day 10 we came to ventosa set in the wine fields...yes on a hill...The Albergue was so really homely...new,clean,Bach playing, incense smoke drifting through the reception, small rooms,large patio and garden, and large lounge....home away from home.
**** We had tea with Julie a pyschologist from South Africa. We had crossed trails many times in the last few days...It was a delightful three course Peregrino meal in a local restaurant....I had hardly eaten during the day and eating a large meal at 8pm is a Spanish Cultural happening.
*** On Saturday we moved through more vineyards and saw many whole families out working there picking. There have been many tractors with trailers laden with grapes sharing our tracks
Today at Azofora a short 15km walk we have our own two bed room in a designed Pilgrim Albergue...it is LUXURY ... big garden.
We arrived here at 1pm and have had a three course meall in the middle of the day.
Walking does become quite a self pre occupation... However in the churches it has been good to reflect quietly on life and people so our thoughts are often with loved ones, friends, acquaintances, work friends etc.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
HILL TOWN ON THE NAVARRA
This was a spectacular town perched high on a hill.
One of the first sights you see is the church steeple and bell tower and often the bells can be heard way out on the fields.
Each town is a little community in itself although in walking through them you could think
that no one lives there they are so quiet and deserted... except the bar for coffee... the church is always open.
PYRANEES PHOTOS
Some photos of the days on the Pyranees. Green fields with livestock right the way to the top. The animals must be moved in the winter below the snow line.
I have tried to add more photos but the blogger is very slow and excruciatingly frustrating.
Walking over the Pyranees has been the most memorable part of the trip so far.
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